Does anyone have any tips on surface preperation for laying lino?
We’ve just pulled up the old lino in one room, the carpet in another (which will have lino) and the entranceway which had slate tiles.
(pulled up floor coverings in all rooms actually, have painted the property, new skirting etc..but thats another story)
We’re getting new carpets and lino throughout and want to make sure the surface is prepared properly.
The carpet layers said just put polyfilla in any holes left from pulling up the carpet and the wooden edge bits.
I was thinking the floors need to be free of dust and any lumps, bumps or dips..but how to best achieve this?
has anyone got any tips from personal experience, as I always think the better the preperation, the better the end result?
REDWING
“Money is a currency, like electricity and it requires momentum to make it Effective”
Count The Currency With This Online Positive Cashflow CalculatorFound this whilst “googling” any other info or “tips n tricks” welcome..
Concrete Slabs
Concrete Floors should always be clean, smooth, free of dust and concrete powder, cracks, wax, oil and paint etc. Concrete slabs should first be checked for moisture using either an Hygrometer or Electrical Resistance Test Meter. The floor is considered acceptable if its relative humidity does not exceed 70% or its moisture content does not exceed 5.5%. As a “Rule of Thumb” a 100mm thick slab will take 4 months to dry sufficiently for the installation of linoleum. Concrete slabs may need to have moisture barriers and cementitious leveling materials screeded on them to provide an acceptable surface. Polymer Engineering always recommend the use of Polymer Engineering’s 6000 Floor & Wall Primer at the rate of approx 10m_ per litre prior to the application of the linoleum adhesive.STORING & CONDITIONING LINOLEUM
Rolls should be stored in an upright position in a dry, moderately even temperature room. They should be rolled out, measured to room lengths, cut off, individually marked, rerolled and stood on end, preferably for 12 hours to allow them to acclimatise to room temperature and conditions.I
NSTALLATION
Roll out the lengths of linoleum in their predetermined places, trim the head ends to length and wall contours. Re roll the rolls to about half their length, sweep the floor, and remove any dust etc.Spread Polymer Engineering 130 Linoleum Adhesive at the rate of 2.5-3m2 per litre using a 2.4 x 2.4 x 2.4mm “V” notched adhesive trowel. The adhesive should cover 100% of the exposed floor area which is to be covered by the linoleum.
Always follow the adhesive manufacturers instructions. Lay the linoleum into the wet adhesive pushing out any air bubbles ensuring a full bond of the adhesive between the linoleum and sub-floor with the soft smoothing board.
Roll up the other half of the linoleum and spread Polymer Engineering 130 Linoleum Adhesive to 100% of the balance of the floor to be covered.
Again push out any air bubbles ensuring a full bond of adhesive between lino and sub-floor. Trim the linoleum to length and wall contours using a scriber and knife. Trim the linoleum widths using an under and over scriber and hook blade knife.
Roll the linoleum in both directions using the 45-50 kg linoleum roller and the seams with the small seam roller.
The linoleum seams should be grooved using a hand grooving tool, linoleum dust and scraps blown away and the seams welded with a hot air welding gun and rod at approximately 2-3 meters per minute at 400-500°C.
The excess weld rod should be removed using firstly a guide plate and half moon knife and when the seam has cooled use the half moon knife to trim any excess weld rod.
Skirting/linoleum corners may be sealed with a mastic sealer similar in colour to the floor covering.
Linoleum may be installed with coving, boarders, motifs and inserts which greatly enhance the appearance and durability of the floor.
Linoleum may be installed with conductive adhesive and copper strips. For more information on this type of installation, contact your linoleum distributor.
“Money is a currency, like electricity and it requires momentum to make it Effective”
Count The Currency With This Online Positive Cashflow CalculatorHi Redwing,
Lino has its own underlay! Comes in sheets that are like wallboard or masonite etc and layed (if done properly) with packers to address any levl problems.
The underlay is glued and srewed to the floor and the lino clues straight over.
Cheers
[email protected]
Property Spotters living in NZ
Renovation & Project Management
Email now to receive info on the lastest deals!Don Nicolussi | Mortgage Broker - Home Loan Warehouse
http://homeloanwarehouse.com.au
Email Me | Phone Me"I think of finance as a technology, a way of getting things done." Robert Shiller
For a timber floor you’ll first need to clean the area and lay down masonite underlay. It comes in sheets which you can buy from Bunnings and needs to be nailed down every 20mm around the edge and then accross every joist.
If this is too hard your Lino layer can do it for you but they charge around $30 m2.AJBS
Floor is concrete..
I’ve used Builders Bog to fill in gaps left by the old carpet ‘securing-board’ thingies ;o) and sanded these flat.
REDWING
“Money is a currency, like electricity and it requires momentum to make it Effective”
Count The Currency With This Online Positive Cashflow CalculatorRedwing,
The tips and tricks you posted are mostly for a commercial application.In a domestic situation,vinyl is normally lose laid,meaning it is only stuck down around the edges and along the joins.Domestic vinyl is only about 1mm thick and the joins are not welded,and commercial vinyl is around 3mm.As for the preparation,sometimes the concrete needs a skim of ardit or similar,which is then sanded with a canterbury sander.Your slab may be good enough without it,and we usually find that new slabs are ok,just touching up any holes and defects as you have done.The builders bog will work fine.Tools
Thanks for that Tools..
Bunnings guys had no clue about Ardit (they’d never heard of the product at the trade desk), they’d actually sold out of all concrete as well (busy times).
REDWING
“Money is a currency, like electricity and it requires momentum to make it Effective”
Count The Currency With This Online Positive Cashflow CalculatorThere are very few people at bunnies that have a clue about anything!
I’m laying lino in a new project (residential) it is made by a company called FORBO and has a sound proof rating 6 times better than carpet, fully anti slip with a great range of finishes. I have chosen a timber look alike and believe me it looks beautiful. Its very expensive but what the heck.
resi
Thanks resi..
I liked the individual lino strips that are wood grained, but went with a slightly cheaper product that still matches the benchtops etc..
REDWING
“Money is a currency, like electricity and it requires momentum to make it Effective”
Count The Currency With This Online Positive Cashflow Calculatorwhat a great time for you to ask this question.
we just layed lino in our kitchen and dining area at our investment property on the weekend.
there is a video you can buy for under $7 on “how to lay lino” which gives you the lowdown. i don’t need it anymore so if you want it I can probably give it to you if you’re in melbourne.
We ended up spending slightly more money and bought the vinyl tiles with adhesive back so you lay them as tiles and just stick them on the floor. Obviosuly all the edge tiles have to be cut, but it came up very good. We choose a wood-look floor and it’s great. i took some pics on my digital so if you PM me I can send you some if you want to see it.
they recommend you put a primer down and then just stick them on. Full instructions were in the box.
the floor cost us under $200 total laid. we could’ve done it a bit cheaper with standard lino and bought an adhesive but in the interest of time we spent a bit more and got it done to have the house ready for tenants. time is money!
Hi Nats12,
is that $200 or $2000? two hundred seesm a bit in my area!Cheers
C@34Our greatest weakness lies in giving up. The most certain way to succeed is to always try something one more time.
– Thomas Edison$200
Hey Redwing,
The technical name for those wooden edge bits is “smooth edge” which I thought was hilarious when I first heard. Real contradiction considering the puncture wounds in my fingers after pulling them up!
Never laid lino before but have loads of personal experience with laminate flooring if you are considering that.
cheers
Jan
You must be logged in to reply to this topic. If you don't have an account, you can register here.
