Forum Replies Created

Viewing 20 posts - 81 through 100 (of 860 total)
  • Profile photo of v8ghiav8ghia
    Member
    @v8ghia
    Join Date: 2005
    Post Count: 871

    Hi Mitzu,

    In NSW the solicitor or conveyancor holds the contract once it is signed, and does not 'exchange' it until you OK them to do so, for example once you have finances in order, (ie unconditional)  and inspections done etc. Whereas some other states of course are a bit different.
    DOn't be worried about waiting until your solicitor looks at the form and contract – that is normal process for NSW, and a 'no brainer'.
    All the best with the inspection.

    Cheers

    Profile photo of v8ghiav8ghia
    Member
    @v8ghia
    Join Date: 2005
    Post Count: 871
    brendogs wrote:
    Thanks for the response v8ghia Why do you say to avoid those particular areas?

    Every where has them – but these are the areas you would either not buy in, exercise caution when buying in, or do a lot more due diligence. Not to say that there are not some really nice people & places living out that way.
    That said, you need to pick your place & or street. FOr example Eaglehawk has some really good areas, and some magnificent period property – but also some ferals. In some suburbs, prices appear cheaper, but while yields may be ok, values will increase much slower, and places will be on the market longer.

    As for the other comment on Horsham, I find that interesting. I have a place there, and recently asked the RE to give me a 'market appraisal' based on their frequent offers to do so, and in three and a half years, the growth would equate to less than 7% gross – meaning if I sold now, I would lose a few grand over what I paid for the place once costs and fees etc were taken out.

    All the best with what you decide. Unless you are in some position  (as well as gifted & lucky) where buying at bargain basement prices and renovating and doing a quick sell is doable,  make sure you look medium to long term.

    Cheers.

    Profile photo of v8ghiav8ghia
    Member
    @v8ghia
    Join Date: 2005
    Post Count: 871

    Hi katsudon,

    If you've moved to Tassieyou have to live somehwere, so it makes sense to buy. But like anywhere, if investing, you will need to look med-long term and buy carefully at the moment. There is always good deals to be had, but great deals are less common. As far as Queenstown goes, I cannot see any value in buying an investment property there – it has had it's time for the moment, and while there are some dear old character house there, there are also some absolute dungers. If you go for a drive out that way, you;ll get the gist. Make sure you take a flannelette shirt and fingerless gloves too (that was a bit nasty of me!) Around 4 years ago there was some growth, but not much going on at the moment.
    All the best!

    Cheers

    Profile photo of v8ghiav8ghia
    Member
    @v8ghia
    Join Date: 2005
    Post Count: 871

    Unbelievable Terry. Must admit though, that while I have had good experiences with some agents, some should be quite simply jailed. The three worst experiences I have ever had, which include ambiguous contracts, deposit issues, and blatant dishonesty (requiring commissions as 'deferrred advertisign levies' once the sale period has expired and they have not sold the house and their sales agent has put in writing that they don't apply)  all have 'First National' in their title, whether in VIC, NSW, or Tassie………although I'm sure it's a coincidence! ;-)

    Cheers

    Profile photo of v8ghiav8ghia
    Member
    @v8ghia
    Join Date: 2005
    Post Count: 871

    Hey brendogs,

    Bendigo sounds like a much better option. Must admit in your price range, you won't get a heck of a lot, but rentals are very tight, and yields quite good. I would suggest avoiding Long Gully area, and be careful around pockets of Eaglehawk, Kangaroo Flat, and some parts of Nth Bendigo & California Gully. SOme of the new H & L packages are great value, if you look long term, and allow for depreciation, and buying near the hospital or Latrobe Uni is not a bad idea. All the best regardless!

    Cheers

    Profile photo of v8ghiav8ghia
    Member
    @v8ghia
    Join Date: 2005
    Post Count: 871
    Terryw wrote:
    Salary sacrifice a credit card? What do you mean? Does the employer just pay the credit card for you each month by reducing the taxable wage by the same amount?

    If you pay a loan with a credit card then you would need to do a cash advance and then use the cash to pay. No lender would take the credit card payment. Same with rent, the real estate agent may be able to charge a credit card, but they would want the card fee added on the transaction – 1-2% usually.

    Hi Terry,

    Not all do, but what happens is that the employer, who generally would be govt such as nursing / hopsital, ay have a fixed salpac amount, of say $360 per fortnight – which can be paid direct into a home loan account. If not loan account is available, they in turn pay this same amount into a credit card account instead, as the PAYG employee may nominate. It is the fixed amount, so anything over the flat amount would need to be paid as per the normal process by the employee. I have seen quite a few do this, but always health services staff, and in turn many are not aware that it can be an option.

    Cheers.

    Profile photo of v8ghiav8ghia
    Member
    @v8ghia
    Join Date: 2005
    Post Count: 871

    Hi st81hp79

    Sorry if I may have mislead you there – I thought you were talking about a SMSF & trust for some reason, (must have been some of the other posts I was looking at earlier) rather than a 'non SMSF' one – which of course what I said doesn't apply to. As I have seen some SMSF special purpose trusts get into some serious issues with the above exact scenario I must have got a bit excited! Still make sure you do it all correctly and documented as has already been mentioned if you choose to do it this way.

    Cheers

    Profile photo of v8ghiav8ghia
    Member
    @v8ghia
    Join Date: 2005
    Post Count: 871

    Hi,

    Most people would salsac to the actual homeloan itself! Then, if you have all your loans paid off, some places allow you to have a sal sac a fixed payment to your a/your credit card, and you would simply use this for normal living expenses /bills etc, and then pay the extra amounts due over and above your employer payment amount yourself.

    Cheers

    Profile photo of v8ghiav8ghia
    Member
    @v8ghia
    Join Date: 2005
    Post Count: 871

    HI,
    If you are paying a deposit to purchase the property, and seeking finance then for the balance, you MUST pay the deposit via the trust or you will be in breach of SMSF legislation, which could have serious repercussions for you. You cannot 'reimburse' a third party from the SMSF for the deposit. Of course, you could make a gift/contribution to the fund for the deposit amount. Make sure you check this out in more detail before you do anything with a finance professional.

    All the best.

    Profile photo of v8ghiav8ghia
    Member
    @v8ghia
    Join Date: 2005
    Post Count: 871

    Hi Intrigue,

    It's all good. People tha have a principal and interest loan have exactly the same situation – there interest varies depending on how many days are in the month and what day it is charged on (depending on weekends/last day of month) but as their repayments are 'contracted' the same amount each month, they usually don't see that the interest amount varies – as they pay the same amount each month, but some months more of it is principal than other months. You would be amazed how many find the concept of interest only a bit 'tricky' if they have only had P&I loans before.

    Cheers,

    Profile photo of v8ghiav8ghia
    Member
    @v8ghia
    Join Date: 2005
    Post Count: 871

    hI naughtyj.
    As mentioned, you will need in most cases the correct loan product – ie an 'interest only in advance loan', which will have a fixed interest rate. By way of illustration, the best of the 'big 4' as far as rates and fees & charges goes currently offer a 20 point discount for their product over a normal 'P&I' loan. You can't just pay the interest off in advance otherwise, or as Terry mentioned you are actually just reducing your loan principal.

    Good for those with a major tax problem I guess.where they won't have one the following year…….

    Profile photo of v8ghiav8ghia
    Member
    @v8ghia
    Join Date: 2005
    Post Count: 871

    HI,

    I think Jason's comments are timely in this market. Have recently done the same myself selling a place – and the concensus is the BEST you can hope for is to simply get your money back, and possibly make the property more appealing. And that is the best you can hope for unless you are able to perfomr the works extremely cheaply or have new kitchens etc lying around.  Many people prefer to have input into these things themselves if they need replacement /repairs, and if they don't need doing, why bother? In some cases, you may make the property much more saleable, but not get the money back you have spent.
    All the best with what you decide.

    Profile photo of v8ghiav8ghia
    Member
    @v8ghia
    Join Date: 2005
    Post Count: 871

    IF it's the group I am thinking of (the name sounds the same) I think you would be hard pressed to get finance – as there are numerous fraud alerts for them doing the rounds of institutions that you might need assistance from, with a particular warning about the brokers that 'suggest' them, and the 'valuers' they use. Think of how much weight you;ll lose by 'running a mile'………

    Profile photo of v8ghiav8ghia
    Member
    @v8ghia
    Join Date: 2005
    Post Count: 871

    Hi Quattro,
    Sorry to hear about the house too.
    The ATO publication you need is called 'Has your rental property been damaged or destroyed by a natural disaster" & it is NAT 73814-04-2011. Similar to what you would expect though, as it depends on whether it is a 'repair' or a 'replacement' or 'improvement.'
    Cheers

    Profile photo of v8ghiav8ghia
    Member
    @v8ghia
    Join Date: 2005
    Post Count: 871

    Hi Kate,

    Definitely make sure you go the eyelids first ;-)

    WIth LMI premiums its like anything else – all about volumes, and the banks chuck a heap more business the way of the LMI providers than the credit unions. I worked for the NAB a while back, and the difference in LMI between the banks price and what a couple of the credit unions offered (like ADCU & Defcredit – did a lot of work with the armed forces guys) was almost half!
    Must admit it is less now. I would imagine if your CU was quoting $5000, the bank premium might be $4500, but it all helps.
    By way of comparison put all your details in here and see how it stacks up
    http://www.nab.com.au/wps/wcm/connect/nab/nab/home/personal_finance/1/4/1/1

    Many credit unions ream their customers (quaintly called members) with account & atm transaction fees major, whereas a all of the major banks have low value monthly fee accounts (or $0 in the case of the NAB, or CBA too if you have a min balance) which adds up to much more than the few dollars you may save on home loan interest each month. Still, if you are happy and somewhere that does not charge you like that I agree – why go elsewhere.
    Make sure you check any info to in replies on a public forum Kate. Re the LMI being deductable you will see it says that on the ATO website, where there is a very handy document for property investors. You can get it here
    http://www.ato.gov.au/content/00237831.htm

    I have pasted the bit on LMI below from page 14 here for you.

    EXPENSES DEDUCTIBLE OVER     A NUMBER OF INCOME YEARS
    There are three types of expenses you may incur for your
    rental property that may be claimed over a number of
    income years:
    n borrowing expenses
    n amounts for decline in value of depreciating assets
    n capital works deductions.
    Each of these categories is discussed in detail in the
    following pages.
    Borrowing expenses
    These are expenses directly incurred in taking out a loan
    for the property. They include loan establishment fees, title
    search fees and costs for preparing and filing mortgage
    documents, including mortgage broker fees and stamp
    duty charged on the mortgage.
    Borrowing expenses also include other costs that the
    lender requires you to incur as a condition of them lending
    you the money for the property – such as the costs of
    obtaining a valuation or lender’s mortgage insurance if you
    borrow more than a certain percentage of the purchase
    price of the property.
    The following are not borrowing expenses:
    n insurance policy premiums on a policy that provides for
    your loan on the property to be paid out in the event that
    you die or become disabled or unemployed
    n interest expenses.
    If your total borrowing expenses are more than $100,
    the deduction is spread over five years or the term of the
    loan, whichever is less. If the total deductible borrowing
    expenses are $100 or less, they are fully deductible in the
    income year they are incurred.
    If you repay the loan early and in less than five years, you
    can claim a deduction for the balance of the borrowing
    expenses in the year of repayment.
    If you obtained the loan part way through the income year,
    the deduction for the first year will be apportioned according
    to the number of days in the year that you had the loan.

    Cheers

    Profile photo of v8ghiav8ghia
    Member
    @v8ghia
    Join Date: 2005
    Post Count: 871

    Hi Tracey,

    We have a place in Burnie we listed for sale mid march (got a couple there as I always thought it was a solid yet undervalued area, and it's always good for a 'tax deductible holiday to God's country……. but only want to sell the one in order to use the funds elsewhere) and have had almost no interest at all – just about to have it's first serious inspection later this week – here's hoping.
    It's at the lower end of the market…..(but not in Shorewell Park!) and must admit I would have thought anything in the sub $180k bracket would have been pounced on by FHB's and owner occupiers when you look at the price of rent!
    I believe you're a local based on your other posts? Might be myself one day.

    Cheers

    Profile photo of v8ghiav8ghia
    Member
    @v8ghia
    Join Date: 2005
    Post Count: 871

    HI Joel,

    I'm right with streamline. If you for example wanted to move location at the drop of a hat, don't have kids, and have no interest in gardening, making a house a home, and adding your personal touch to where you live without having to ask renting makes good sense often form a short term monetary point of view.
    But what $ value is 'emotional' side of property ownership? If not, by all means, it is nearly always cheaper to rent – guaranteed.
    I have done both, and much prefer home ownership (in conjunction with the bank!!!!)
    The other thought is that if/when you sell down the track, any capital gain you make is tax free on your own home.
    Age & family status is likely also a factor in the decision and or your needs

    Pros & Cons….no right or wrong though. WHat would you do with the money you save if you rent?

    All the best with what you decide

    Profile photo of v8ghiav8ghia
    Member
    @v8ghia
    Join Date: 2005
    Post Count: 871

    I wouldn't classify them as low income necessarily, but there is still good value to be had in parts of regional victoria – places like Bendigo & Ballarat ? The lower $ end is pretty ordinary, and you need to choose your suburb/street carefully, but yields are ok, and more importantly……..vacancy rates are as close to zero as you'll get. Does'nt always equate to prices though. I'm trying to sell a place in NW Tassy at the moment, and vacany is tight, with rental in very high demand, but it does not equate to 'buyer interest'.
    All the best.

    Cheers

    Profile photo of v8ghiav8ghia
    Member
    @v8ghia
    Join Date: 2005
    Post Count: 871

    Hi Kate,
    Couple of thoughts……..
    Firstly, I have seen plenty of valuations of late coming in lower than expected – although personally I have had a few that have given people a pleasant surprise. IF you know of any comparable sales, even recently (ven if you have to badger a few real estate agents for info on recently sold places) you could submit theses to your lender and ask them to appeal the valuation based on the new information. You would be surprised that with LMI there is always a  'sweet spot' where $500 in the security value, can affect the premium by the same amount almost so it all helps.
    Secondly, you mention you are borrowing with a credit union? The one you mention is better than some, but what you read about credit unions 'saving you money' and being 'better then banks' is pure and utter bilge. With the competition in home lending, and plenty of offers of application fee waivers or paid exit fees, I can just about guarantee you the charge for LMI from the (good) major banks WILL be less than a credit union charges – sometimes thousands. SO even if you valuations dont change, it could be a good idea to walk from the CU.
    Thirdly, is he a good boyfriend? (ie is it a fair price?)
    And finally……if you 'just gotta' remember that LMI premiums are tax deduct able over five years, and make sure all the fees to do with application/establishment costs, LMI etc are assocaited with your invesmtment loan rather than your owner occupied one in orer to maximize tax deductions.

    All the best with whatever you decide.

    Cheers

    Profile photo of v8ghiav8ghia
    Member
    @v8ghia
    Join Date: 2005
    Post Count: 871

    HI,

    I don't see too much of an issue – in that IF you can provide examples of higher sales prices for similar properties, they will consider this & possibly review. Bear in mind valuers compare block size, bedrooms, street appeal, condition, and Sale – not For Sale – price.
    I have seen recent examples come in lower than rates notice CIV values based on comparative sales nearby.
    You mention 'are selling' but have the others you mention actually sold? The last 3 mths in particular, I have seen a lot of vals come in lower than owners think they are worth. My favourite was an 'off the plan' holiday unit purchased a couple of years back for $765k plus, now valued at just over $400k. Better stuff sold for low 4's.

    Cheers

Viewing 20 posts - 81 through 100 (of 860 total)