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    I'm a bit confused are you insured? or not, the sheeting may not need replacing however all the skirting and architraves do need to be removed to allow the timbers to dry. This drying process may need to be done by trained persons to ensure the timbers are dried enough to allow skirting etc to refixed. This can take some time to be carried out.

    Brian

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    Kinda funny really I'm looking at doing the course early this year and plan on using it as an extention of my builders license of course will save me some $$$ on certifing my own pool (maybe?). 

    I will not even start on the $300 bit there are many others professions that charge way over the top in rates just another jumping on the gravy train. 

    Brian
     

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    Personally I feel buying flood prone property as akeen to holding a time bomb, you just don't known when its going to go off (under). How do you factor in another flood through the place while doing the reno? Who will finance the place, I dare say banks etc maybe a bit stand offish, at the moment anyway, who will buy a property that is flood prone, will they be able to get finance or even insurance. How long will you have to hold onto the property before it will sell.

    I agree there is a lot of things to consider. I feel there are better opportunity out there. 

    Just my 2 cents worth

    Brian
     

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    You have a few things to consider. 1. Water/mud etc behind the sheeting this should be removed and the timbers allowed to dry and the timbers cleaned so not to develop mould which may come back and cause you issues later. 2. The sparkie doing my works said he just replaces all powerpoints, switches, safety switches etc he says he then has no issues with faulty switches from corrossion later. 
    3. The bathroom how much is going to be behind or under the bath? 
    4. When and if you take the sheeting off the sheeting will most likely be asbestos, you can only legally remove 10sqm without having a lisence.
    5. Moisture content of structural timbers this should be below 16 before resheeting is carried out.
     6. Waterproofing will or should be checked.
    7. Before sanding any floors these also will need to dry out and this can take a few months unless you can organise proper dryers.
    8. If taking plasterboard off go at least 300mm above the water line and remove from there down, in some cases easier to remove all wall linings. 
     
    Go to either BSA web site or Master Builders Qld they have some good info on how to do flood repairs.
     
    Brian    

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    The Gap Brisbane 11klm CBD ……. 1st IP Woodridge

    Brian

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    mattnz wrote:
    Westpac's economics team is expecting interest rates to increase. All RBA cares about is inflation targeting and the floods will cause produce prices to increase significantly, creating inflationary pressures.

    Not saying this is right or wrong, but an increase in the current situation will be as popular as a "nail in the foot" with many finding out they are not covered for flood or more the fact (Riverine flood damage).
     
    Brian

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    In the early stages I don't feel you will get a lot of houses flooding the market. Many people will be just trying to rebuild thier lives with clean up, insurance, starting over, after which some people may look at getting out. 

    Of course people that do not have insurance you may find these places come on the market, not sure if that will drive prices down or form a glut. In my opinion I feel 18mth – 2 years is when you may find lots of newly repaired places come on the market this may cause a bit of a glut in some areas.

    Also a lot will depend on insurance companies, if they ONLY will use thier own builders and tradies or allow people to get 3 quotes and use local builders and tradies to speed up the repairs. A lot will also ride on materials being available with everyone wanting stuff lead times for gear will be a big issue. 

    Brian    

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    The fact you get underground firing, I would now be looking at a local engineer and having a bit of a chat and see if there is any major issue they have with undergound firing on jobs they do, also ask how much to design a footing / fence. Have your plan or property plan to show I have never had an issue with getting an engineer to have a chat most seem helpfull. 

    This may seem an overkill but be nothing if the wall collasped and injured / killed someone, a designed footing would seem rather cheap then.

    Not trying to scare you just consider "what if" 

    Brian  

    amazingjeffery wrote:
    thanks Brian,
    they will definately be core filled.  The piers will be 2m but inbetween the piers its only 2 block courses high.  The ground conditions probably move quite a bit because of the underground firing, but i think the reo will take care of it, and thinking of putting horzontal reo between the 2 courses between piers.

    This would definately be a concrete truck job wouldnt it?   A mixer would just take to long for the size of the pour wouldnt it?

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    Well as its your front fence most likely will not have an issue with the neighbours (sometimes a good thing). As for the footings I cannot say as I don't know the soil type and by this I mean wheather its stable or reactive (moves a lot). The other thing is the height being 2m is rather a high fence and would need a good stable footing. Your piers will also need to be core filled.

    Usually your footing concrete height finishes a bit below the height of your existing land. (Example 50mm). To screed all you need is say a 75 x 35 board 2.4m long that is straight. Pour the concrete into trench slowing as not to dislodge your trench mesh enough to support the mesh and slowly fill to the height of your height bars and just keep moving along the trench. Using a square nose shovel just move excess concrete along the trench as required to your height bars. Then just use the straight edge and place on your height bars and move back and forward till its level then use a trowl to just flatten as required. 

    If you use the truck to start at one end and slowly move (if possible) along the trench you just watch when the concrete gets to the height bars and move forward till finished. This can save a bit of work in the levelling department :) with shovel.

    Its only your height bars that you are screeding to NOT the trench mesh which should be approx 50 mm below finished concrete height.
    Once you have done all the screeding just hit the height bars down no problem then:). You just use the walls of the trench as your formwork. 

    Brian
           

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    In general not a big issue to construct. Apart from insuring you are on the boundary, and the neighbour has signed paperwork they are happy with the design (may save disputes later) and meeting costs, depending on soil type in your area you may need a designed footing and wall, the council may have they soil type for your location failing that a soil test maybe considered. Contact council and check on any requirements IE height being one. Also don't forget expansion joints I think they are at 6m centres (sorry would have to look up again)

    Digging the trench I will assume it is level site, dig the trench the width you want and the depth (600 x 400). you will need trench mesh (3 bar) and some links to join them together size approx (500 x 300) at 600 or 900 centres (depending on what your soil type requires).

    Then you will need some deformed bar bent at right angle one end (concrete end) and tied to the trench mesh or as required by the specification. Then trench mesh is held in the trench by timber or what ever laying accross the trench and the trench mesh is tied to the to these boards and suspending the trench mesh to the required height. 

    The finished height of the concrete can be organised by using stakes or left over deformed bar and tapped into the trench (usually up the middle) to the finished height of the concrete this way you pour concrete to this height and a quick screed between stakes (pull out any timber stakes) once your level is achieved. You have your footing installed. Sit back admire with a coldie :)

    If its a step footing, because your have a fall in the land front to back of the fence, just dig the footing down the depth of the block you are using 200 mm high of course your trench mesh will also need to be stepped to match.
     
    Hope this makes sense if you need some more info or drawing to better discribe the above please ask.

    Brian 

      

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    1. As a 20 year old listening to others thinking it was good advise knowing now it was not.
    2. Not having the guts / balls to step out and have a go.
    3. listening to banks what I can manage to do.
    4. Failing in the 3 Ps
    5. Not reading enough and acting
    6. No real investment goal / plan

    Just a few an now I am working on all the above.
     
    Brian

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    Whats your brother say?

    Brian

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    Hi,

    Yes I noticed this and as I have yet to do a "final" cost, I will be adding the painting then. I will put this together ASAP so I can organise depreciation schedule for taxation. 

    I have a few other things to be added like builtins and the water main to house ruptured when water was turned on so had to replace this, regulator for the gas hot water died during the reno so had to get that repalced as well.

    Of course paint will be included :) I think the floor was done in poly and finished in semi gloss. Semi gloss was recommended as it supposed to not show up scatches as much hmmm will see I guess. 

    House Call wrote:
    Looks fantastic Brian.  Inspirational!

    Your costs don't include paint.  Also what did you do your floors with?

    Brian

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    Hi,
     
    I don't know if you plan to buy reno and hold or sell so I'm not going to go into figures on whether its worth it or not, but I agree the romance can soon leave if a few hurdles come up which can have a cost blow out.

    In saying that if your set on going ahead I would be very specific what you want to do. It would also seem you will need to paint the place and when you do this usually the power / light switches look shi% and are also best to replace so all looks new. What I'm trying to say is look at each room in turn and jot down what is to be done and what is to be replaced, this includes the above rooms, to save $$$ don't go changing the plumbing within reason in the kitchen, bathroom etc this will help keep the cost down. When going around measure the bathroom and kitchen so you can contact cabinetmakers etc and get estimates.  

    At the end add them all up and add say 5% for buffer.

    This is a very basic approach and there are lots to consider before you take the plunge. Of course it can be very rewarding to turn a dump into a diamond (so to speak).

    This may give you some prices as I have listed mine on my reno its on the last page https://www.propertyinvesting.com/forums/property-investing/value-adding/4332210

    Thanks
    Brian  

     

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    Hopefully this will work. http://www.4shared.com/dir/1HmfT00k/sharing.html

    I have put a few more photo's on at the bottom.

    Brian

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    Well its been a long time since I last posted and a lot has happened, I have been delayed due to various reasons and had to go to Darwin for a few weeks which has put me back somewhat. At least I'm back now and get back into it. To date the place has been painted, floors polished, all plumbing now completed, outside has been cleaned up and now I can get onto the finishing stuff such as Shelfs in builtins, a few tiles in laundry, bits and peices of painting, complete front and rear door, put all the door handles on, install curtains and clean the place etc. Carpets coming Thursday. Then I can head outside and basically paint soffits, gutter and fasicas. 

    Spoke with agent today and he said get the inside completed and we can rent it out as they have people waiting. Good news which will suit me having monies coming in at least.

    The issue I will have is getting a valuation as the outside needs to be completed first, giving me the best chance to get a higher / better valuation for refinancing.   

    For anyone that is interested I have posted my expences to date, I have not updated my figures and the amounts in italic are the expected amount except the electrician, still to pay is also the engineer. Which is $900.00 once I get all figures will give a final update. At this stage I'm happy and as they say "better for the outing". I have also a number of other places I have now looking at and keen to move forward. 

    My aim was to have the place completed for as close to $230000 as possible and at the moment I'm still a little under $6100 to go to meet this target. This of course does not include holding costs at the moment.

    The main hit on my budget was the windows and re roofing half the place as neither was included, in saying that have still managed to keep the budget overflow to a minimum.

    I will be back into it on Thursday and get stuck into it a pity I'm also back at work which will slow me up a bit (bugger) I choose to install new aluminium windows and I'm pleased I did it looks a lot better.

    I will try and post some photos up later today.

    MY PLAN

    House Purchase 190,000.00
    Stamp Duty 5,075.00
    Convayencing 941.50
    Renovation Costs 34,000.00
    Building Search Council 52.00

    Total $ 230068.50

    THE FACT

    Item Cost
    Timber $523.43
    Bolts / washers $155.67
    Mortice Lock $28.24
    Everyday Tree Lopping $960.00
    Roof Tiles $1,092.30
    Plasta Masta Plaster $1,893.08
    Dishwasher $699.00
    2 x Air Cons $1,338.00
    Euromaid oven hotplate rangehood $999.00
    Delivery $60.00
    General materials $27.54
    Plaster screws and glue $22.96
    Timber and concrete for bath $93.10
    Window screws $17.20
    Plaster mouldings and pipe clips $7.30
    Villaboard / timber / miscellaneous $182.67
    Timber /miscellaneous $24.39
    Timber $49.20
    Roof Tiler $2,552.00
    Bins 1x 8m 1x 6m $605.00
    Windows $4,114.00
    Kitchen $4,366.18
    Plasterer $1,753.00
    Electrician $6,363.00

    Total $27,926.26

    Brian

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    Well plumbers are on site hooking things up under the house, yipee running water (alas NO) Just got call from plumber and the water main to the house burst (of course it would) now have to dig pipe up and renew &%$@,  that sounds like a job for my son tomorrow. 

    Anyway still on track to be ready Tuesday have uploaded some more photos.
    http://www.4shared.com/account/dir/1HmfT00k/sharing.html?sId=NgNIHmM4iuQ0E0jf

    Of course now the hard part what colour to paint the inside hmmm.

    Brian 

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    Well the place is coming along rather well,  I will post some photos ASAP now that the tiles have been installed.  

    So now just a few bits of skirting, door locks and some bits and peices to do, final clean of the ceilings, walls and floors. Phew
     
    Hopefully by Tuesday end I will be ready to change into some painting gear.  Its now just ticked over 3 months but I've only been doing it part time which is a bit of a bugger but I can see the light to finishing the inside.

    Brian 

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    You can do a lot of the work yourself to cut down on cost BUT if you intend to get a builder or tradie in find out to what extent the rip out is to be.

    If people just go slow and be organised you can do a lot of the work yourself, but you will need a sparkie, plumber, waterproofer, glazier and remember to get a form 15 when completed for your records.

    The hardest is for home owners is knowing if the trades are doing the work to the standard. Its hard enough as a builder to check on the trades works thats why you get good tradies they are worth the $$$. 

    I had a tiler come to do my place (my usual tiler had broken his leg) and i had the angle for the shower set 10mm above the finished tile height so the shower screen sits over. The tiler said why did you do it that way, its a waste of time, I just cut them off and tile over them, suffice to say I got another tiler to do my place. 

    Brian

        
     

     

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    I can say at this stage I have spent $24900. I can say I was not expecting to replace the louvers to sliders but this was done 1. for resale and 2. agents said it would be easier to rent being secure and looking around the area its seemed very very few louvers in place.

    The roof tiles was simply a mistake on my part forgot what heat and water do to tiles. These two hit me a bit over $ 7300. But with cost savings in other areas I have reduced the hit a fair bit but thats learning and I am more aware for the next outing.
     
    I am happy with the progress and if things don't go pear shaped I hope to be finished the inside by the end of the month. Then I can venture outside.

    I have someone keen to rent the place will look at getting $320 but will reduce the rent while I am working outside which will take a couple of months.

    The problem is I am working alone and I'm ummmmm not 20 anymore and what the brain thinks will get done the body has the last say by days end it rarely is the same. 

    The best part is I am enjoying doing my own place.

    Will try and take some photo's and post for anyone interested

    Anyway til next update

    Brian
      

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