Hubby and I are just about to start renovating our first house. At the moment it is our PPOR but all things going well we hope to be able to use it as an investment property within the next 6 months or so.
Our house is very close to a railway line and when heavy trains go past.Once or week or so the house shakes. There are no wall tiles in the bathroom or any other area of the house and wondering if that could be a reason? We are hesitant about installing tiles in case they are shaken off over time.
Does anyone know what hardieglaze tile sheets are like? I have googled them and can find no problems with using them. Thanks.Hardieglaze tile sheets – yep, good product. Be careful when cutting the sheets, sharp tools are the go. We use lami knife, guide and power saw.
Give some clearance round the sheet edge and use maxbond or similar to adhere to the studs. When installing fixtures n fittings over the sheet pre-drill all holes.
Hope this helps
Mallowe
Thanks for your reply. Do you know if you can install them over walls or do we have to rip of the wall material. Not sure what it is exactly (1940s house) and install directly to the studs as you mentioned. thanks
Is this the same as AquaTile tileboards (perhpas a different brand?)
With the tileboards, you simply glue them to the old sheeting, you don’t take the old material off, the instrucations for the tileboards specifically tell you to glue it to the old fibro or whatever is there.
We’ve just finished doing a bathroom in the tileboard and it looks great, but it wasn’t as easy as it was made out to be and it was amazing how much glue you needed. It can also be tricky getting it around fittings that are already there ie: we had to get it to go around a toilet cistern and the various pipes and had quite a few cuts that then needed sealing etc. It wasn’t flexible enough to get it around the cistern otherwise. Also the house we were doing was old and the it turned out the bathroom was’nt very square, this made lining up of the tiles on the tileboard quite a challenge at times.
Lastly we wer told after the event that termites love the backing so make sure you always have your h ouse regualry checked.
So, all in all, it looked great but wasn’t half as easy as what they said and it was quite easy to scratch so we had to redo a couple of sheets before we’d even finished the whole project. So we wouldn’t use it again. We’d stay with conventional tiles in the future, feel they are much hardier.
Regards
PKThanks purplekiss. As we have a 6 year old and a 9 year old I think that tiling will be the best. We know for sure that the room is not square. Luckily we have installed an exterra termite baiting/monitoring system so that should be a problem.
If your sticking the tiles to fibro or asbethos, spend a little extra for the better glue that has a bit more felxibility to it, you’ll have less trouble down the track as the wall will still have a bit of movement after the tiles go on, but the type of glue will hold the tiles to it better as it allows for that movement.
Don’t know if I explained that very well, but I cna’t think of a better way to explain at the moment.
Good Luck
PKHey tgavin71,
I have been working in a tile store part time for the past 5 years. The store is owned by my grandfather who insisted i started working part time at a young age, hehe 14 actually.In reference to your question “Once or week or so the house shakes. There are no wall tiles in the bathroom or any other area of the house and wondering if that could be a reason? We are hesitant about installing tiles in case they are shaken off over time.” I believe installing the tiles using a flexible glue (such as ABA’s ABAFLEX glue which comes in a 20kg bag and covers 6m2-7m2 for cost $42-$48) will do the trick. Also in all wet areas it is important that the tiles are installed on top of a fibre cement sheet, rather than the plaster wall.
As for increasing the perceptual value of the home without increasing the costs to heavily, adding a marble or glass border either vertically or horizontally is a great way of doing this. Each sheet should only cost you about $45per sheet and should cover a length of approx. 1.2lm, (in comparison to a border this is very cheap – eg for a verticle strip in the shower never more than two sheets are needed hence $90cost). Then throw in a plain white or alabaster tile (these colours are most popular and suit any colour scheme), which shouldn’t cost more than $25m2 and you have a tiled bathroom wall that looks a million dollars.
Hope this helps, and if anyone has any questions at all in regards to tiling, i would be happy to share my knowledge.
Great advice guys…the glass border sounds interesting. We had originally planned on all white tiles but I am very much liking the idea of the glass to give it a bit of perzazz (spelling?) Not sure about the floor yet. Would the albaster look good on the floor with the white walls? Our bathroom is tiny. I have read that big tiles make small rooms appear larger. Is this true? thanks
No problem. It is true that larger tiles make a small room appear larger, however if you go too big, then it just looks silly because you have to cut most of the tiles. Using a white wall and an alabaster floor would be a good approach, because i think you would target a larger pool of potential buyers. Due to the fact that both colours are simple and other colours can come into the picture, in the form of towels, mats, ornaments etc. Also the light colours would open the room up and also help it to appear larger. Hope this helps….
great minds think alike!
Yes!! I am a convert to this stuff. It is super durable for tenants and it fairly low cost and still looks great.
Great for shower baths and if installed well would look pretty good in the kitchen too.
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Also in all wet areas it is important that the tiles are installed on top of a fibre cement sheet, rather than the plaster wall.
Hi Dturco,
Isn’t there a wet area plasterboard that can be used instead of the fibre cement sheet?
Regards,
PeteHI Pete,
They say you can tile straight over gib or gyprock aqualine sheets after just sealing the surface. I would feel more comfortable tiling over the fibre cement products. The sealing compounds have a success that is dependant on curing times and temperature etc.
cheers
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NZ Investors & Property Spotters
Renovations & Project Management
Email now to receive info on the lastest deals!Don Nicolussi | Mortgage Broker - Home Loan Warehouse
http://homeloanwarehouse.com.au
Email Me | Phone Me"I think of finance as a technology, a way of getting things done." Robert Shiller
Hey pete,
Isn’t there a wet area plasterboard that can be used instead of the fibre cement sheet?Yep, there sure is> It’s similar to a fibre cement sheet, however is considered waterproof. Usually green or blue in colour and available in almost all hardware stores. The special waterproof cement sheet is generally used for outdoors as the standard 6mm cement sheet is adequate for the wet area. What i would also recommend, is to actually use a waterproofing compound in the wet areas, that will ensure protection of the area. This is probably not necessary, and would only increase your spend, so i would recommend to consult a tiler who can give further advice. Important because each job is different, but having said that there are general rules that need to be followed.
Thanks
DamianThanks for the advise Damian, Don & Liz
Cheers,
Pete
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