All Topics / Help Needed! / Flooring for an uneven floor

Viewing 9 posts - 1 through 9 (of 9 total)
  • Profile photo of PurpleKissPurpleKiss
    Participant
    @purplekiss
    Join Date: 2003
    Post Count: 580

    Latest IP one one room with a concrete floor that has hills and valleys in it. Ideally I would have liked to lay jarrah floorboards or a floating floor but I’m told we need a level floor for that.

    Does anyone have any creative ideas for what to cover this floor with? I don’t want to rip up the concrete fllor to realy it, don’t have that sort of time available, so looking for other ideas please.

    Thanks
    PK

    Profile photo of redwingredwing
    Participant
    @redwing
    Join Date: 2003
    Post Count: 2,733
    Originally posted by The Adviser:

    You can fill the valleys with concrete and make it flat or you can put in a proper timber floor by creating a frame over the floor which is level and then laying the floor boards on this (not floating as they are not strong enough to be off the ground).

    Ditto…agree with ADVISER

    Was on TV not that long ago.. Gotta love the RENO shows..

    REDWING

    “Money is a currency, like electricity and it requires momentum to make it Effective”
    Count The Currency With This Online Positive Cashflow Calculator

    Profile photo of afloatafloat
    Participant
    @afloat
    Join Date: 2004
    Post Count: 48

    Hi PurpleKiss,

    There’s a product called “ardit” which is specifically for filling In the “valleys” Thickness of product application from 1mm to 15mm.

    Its like a slurry mix, trowel it on and it is “self leveling” to a degree. Sets harder than concrete ( well it is in some way similiar). Prep the existing surface with “bondcrete” or something similiar.

    Next day you can lay whatever you like on it, marbles are a good test!

    Hope this helps

    regards

    Afloat

    Profile photo of brahmsbrahms
    Participant
    @brahms
    Join Date: 2004
    Post Count: 485

    agree with afloat – a good concreter will be able to solve this by adding more concrete – self levelling. should be pretty straightforward and solve the ups and downs.

    from there you’ll be able to lay a floating floor or floorboards perfectly.

    cheers

    brahms

    If you don’t ask, the answer is no!!

    Profile photo of PurpleKissPurpleKiss
    Participant
    @purplekiss
    Join Date: 2003
    Post Count: 580

    Thanks everyone. I think we’ll be a ocuple of weeks before we get to this one, have a few other things to fix first, but this gives us time to get the stuff needed etc.

    Thanks again.

    Profile photo of Richard TaylorRichard Taylor
    Participant
    @qlds007
    Join Date: 2003
    Post Count: 12,024

    Why not try a self leveling latex product.

    Cheers Richard
    richard at fhog.com.au
    http://www.fhog.com.au

    There is no such thing as a problem.
    Just a solution waiting to be found

    Richard Taylor | Australia's leading private lender

    Profile photo of PurpleKissPurpleKiss
    Participant
    @purplekiss
    Join Date: 2003
    Post Count: 580

    OK, come across another small problem with this floor, it has the holes drilled around the edges for termite treatments so I’m thinking whatever we put down will need to be easily lifted around the edges for future treatments. The main house has trap doors in it to get under the floor, however this backroom was added later and the concrete pad laid. So beacsue future treatmentsw ill be needed I’m assuming we forget the floorboard idea otherwise these will need to be lifted each time treatment is necessary and that sounds like it will be costly.

    So once we’ve levelled the concrete, what are our options? Would lino or carpet be the only easy option ie: it can be lifted?

    PK

    Profile photo of afloatafloat
    Participant
    @afloat
    Join Date: 2004
    Post Count: 48

    Hi PurpleKiss,

    Usually the plug holes are about 400mm apart. When you lay a floating floor over, put short lengths of floor over the plugs. It is easier to then take up these short lengths when you need to gain access to plugs.

    We come across this all the time, owners want floating floor, termite plugs everwhere, concrete floor. It is easy to lay the floor and you can tell afterwards where the holes are because you take up the “short” boards at the end, and the outside long board running at the skirt.
    Squirt in your gunge, and replace the boards.

    Alternatively, lay a perimeter board (like a boarder) then you lay the floor up to this boarder. When you need to gain access to holes, you just take up the boarders, squirt in your gunk and lay back the boarder.
    So yes you can still have a timber floor over concrete that has holes for termite treatment.

    Regards

    Afloat

    Profile photo of PurpleKissPurpleKiss
    Participant
    @purplekiss
    Join Date: 2003
    Post Count: 580

    Brilliant, thanks afloat.

Viewing 9 posts - 1 through 9 (of 9 total)

You must be logged in to reply to this topic. If you don't have an account, you can register here.