Hi
The awful tiles on the floor of our ensite seem pretty securely fastened.
The concrete floor has no leaks and seems to have the correct "fall" for drainage.
I am concerned that if I try and rip up the tiles I may need to get a tiler in to re-screat the floor (I don't trust my ability in this area)Is it possible to tile straight over the floor tiles and if so, is there anything I should look out for?
The wall tiles are definately being replaced rather than covered.
Thnaks
KentonAll tile shops have a product called various names but the one I used is Prebond, which I used in tiling over existing tiles in my bathroom floor and walls as well as two IP shower cubicles.
Tiling floors can be tricky due to floor slopes, tiles can poke up too high. Just needs some planning in tile layout before you start.
Abbruzzi
There is a product called Kemcrete made by dribond chemicals. Its about $50 for 5 litres. You mix the milky PVA solution with cement and roughly brush it on and let it dry. My advice is see a specialist tiling supplier. There are some in Sydney that supply the tools and mixes to tilers. If I were you I would rip all the tiles up cause that way you can be sure of the waterproofing and the floor level doesnt end up too high. Have you ever had rip of 2 layers of tiles — its a major pain then next time around.
Also please check you post into the correct category, U post is in the wrong one!
Thanks for that guys …
TrumpMan, which category do you suggest I post reno questions?
Hi there,
We are in the process of doing same thing.
Our tiler has told us to grind the shine off the tops of tiles so better adhesion..you will need a Diamond grinding blade.
You can order them on Ebay.
It's a pretty messy job but quick to do.
Depends on your tile of course.
cheersflash wrote:Hi there,We are in the process of doing same thing.
Our tiler has told us to grind the shine off the tops of tiles so better adhesion..you will need a Diamond grinding blade.
You can order them on Ebay.
It's a pretty messy job but quick to do.
Depends on your tile of course.
cheersHi Flash
How did you go with this? Did the job come out OK? Kenton and I are about to try to do the same thing.
Leanne
Hi there
We done something similar to an old tiled bath a few years back.
The product was called "bond" something – it's basically applied like a render, wait for it to dry and then tile onto the new surface. It looks good and no tiles have moved.
Cheers
Jamie
Jamie Moore | Pass Go Home Loans Pty Ltd
http://www.passgo.com.au
Email Me | Phone MeMortgage Broker assisting clients Australia wide Email: [email protected]
Hi
We are reno old house and it had 3 layers of tiles on wall. When we tried to chizel them off the whole lot came of. If the floor is solid ( concrete ) and you get a good key sound ok.
Ironlady
I would only recommend tile on tile once only, beyond that the amount of tile on the wall becomes quite heavy and not the best if you have compressed sheet walls or plasterboard as it may pull the lining off the walls.
I wouldn't suggest you tile over the top of existing one. That isn't a good idea I think. I definitely agree with TrumpMan.
the only way to reliably tile or existing tiling is to provide a mechanical key for the tile adhesive. Glazed / fired tiles will not provide such a key so you have 2 options – prtially grind the surface as described above, or apply a coat of Ammonium biflouride which will etch into the glaze and make it suitable for tiling. Be careful of this chemical though, it is quite toxic. The tile adhesive to use should be a polymer modified one [either acrylic or SBR] PVA is not reliable.
I have 2 bathrooms to do and I will use the chemical technique. Quick, easy, no mess [but dangerous – you have to be caareful]
Hi We did it in one of our previous houses but it was an open plan Kit/Living /Din it was okay
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