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  • Profile photo of magic32magic32
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    @magic32
    Join Date: 2005
    Post Count: 49

    Thanks for the post. So is it that I need to go on title and be one of the borrowers with future borrowing capacity reduced by the full loan amount. Are there any better ways?

    I’m sure I heard of husband as guarantor for wife, and parents as guarantor for their children a few years back or do lenders generally don’t allow this anymore since the financial crisis.

    Profile photo of magic32magic32
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    @magic32
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    Thanks for the responses.

    Do you think I should get an estimate (not pre-approval) from two brokers. Because different lenders could have loans amounts which vary considerably like 50k-100k difference. I don’t feel good about this though since I can only get a loan through one of them.

    Profile photo of magic32magic32
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    @magic32
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    Do I need to save the whole 5% in only 3 months. It will take closer to 6 months to save 5%

    Profile photo of magic32magic32
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    @magic32
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    Hi Richard, it’s actually for an investment property.

    Profile photo of magic32magic32
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    @magic32
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    Do you find out whether a new application is required at the beginning, i.e. is it shown on the loan docs what the process is or do you find out at the end of the IO period?

    In the beginning, which period is usually most commonly on offer or which period is not difficult to get approval for, would it be 5, 10 or 15 years?

    What would happen if the loan is not approved at the end of the IO period, forced to sell?

    Can the loan be converted to P&I during the IO period without loan approval?

    If you start with IO for more leverage then convert to P&I during the IO period, would that be ok?

    • This reply was modified 9 years, 10 months ago by Profile photo of magic32 magic32.
    • This reply was modified 9 years, 10 months ago by Profile photo of magic32 magic32.
    Profile photo of magic32magic32
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    @magic32
    Join Date: 2005
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    It's just a straight rental.

    Profile photo of magic32magic32
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    @magic32
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    Hi,
    Thanks for the input guys.

    Just to clarify, the account is a savings/everyday transaction account for things such as wages and day to day expenses and atm withdrawals , not linked to any loan. And as I already have this type of account with another bank.

    E.g. if I were to apply for a home loan for property investing in the future with SGB, CBA, or ANZ or  would it make any difference in terms of approval or loan amount. It would be a first ever loan, if not then I would close it so that I do not need to pay monthly bank fees. I guess the other way to look at it is that it would probably not matter, since there would a lot of lender out there via use of a mortgage broker, and so it might not necessarily be one of the banks that I eventually get a loan with.

    Profile photo of magic32magic32
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    @magic32
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    Qlds007 wrote:
    Yes there are a couple but unfortunately they will not lend to UT or HDT's even on full doc.

    More and more lenders are shying away from such structures so tread carefully.

    Have had many people appraoch me over the last 12 months wanting to refinance out of their current lender but because of the nature of the entity under which the property was held this was not possible.

    Is the HDT the normal/most common way to protect your assets. So if no lender is willing to lend to HDT's then how we protect our assets as well as being able to get finance, or is there some other common structure. Also if they do not lend to HDT right now, then should we structure it in a different way in the boom times to avoid the situation of not being able to refinance in the current conservative times.

    I am not that familiar with the various forms of trusts.

    Profile photo of magic32magic32
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    @magic32
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    Would it be possible to get closer to 80% LVR on the basis of the guarantor alone, or is it generally limited to 20%?

    Also, if the guarantor guarantees a loan, and next time they wish to borrow for another property, is the repayments (20% or 100%???) of this property part of the calculation for their cash flow/liabilities when applying for another loan?

    For the cross guarantee, is it a second mortgage on the guarantor's property? That would have first mortgage consent issues. If the guarantor's property is free and clear, then first mortgage over that could be done. But it is probably better as Qld007 said to have them gift me 20% or 80% instead from cash or equity (and I repay over a number of years).

    Profile photo of magic32magic32
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    @magic32
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    So for the guarantor to have no assets in his own name would mean that he would need to show serviceability from employment income? What if the guarantor was a bit more wealthy and no longer had to work, and his income is from his shareholding in a business, and that would not be good for asset protection, what would be a good arrangement / structure there?

    Profile photo of magic32magic32
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    @magic32
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    Thanks for your replies everyone.

    Profile photo of magic32magic32
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    Also forgot to mention that the purchase price for my properties were around $150,000

    Profile photo of magic32magic32
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    @magic32
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    Let us know how you went with it, my situation is very similar to yours, and I'm getting a QS soon too. How much did you claim? Although my unit cost $150,000; so maybe different from yours.

    Profile photo of magic32magic32
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    @magic32
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    My understanding is that the reno can be depreciated by your accountant based on cost of the renos, but the rest of the property you will need as QS.

    Profile photo of magic32magic32
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    @magic32
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    I think it would be better to pay off your loans first and not your HECS with your excess cash because the HECS interest rate is the inflation rate, which is less interest rate than your loans.

    Profile photo of magic32magic32
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    @magic32
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    Hi,

    Thanks for the replies.

    My units were built in the 1970s  (so before 1985).

    I have spoken to some of them. Some have said that it is still worth doing the depreciation schedule for the old fixtures and fittings, and will ensure that the amount claimed will be more than the cost of the report. Others have said that it is not worth it, the units are too old and most of the depreciation is gone.

    Also, there was one that was half the price of others, but he said that you won't get much back, although still more than cost of report, he was not very enthusiastic about it . And another one that costs around normal price, but said definitely worth doing it, and was more enthusiastic about it. Which one should I choose?

    Do you have experience with depreciation of old properties, of approx how much is claimed per year. It seems that it is logical that I do get depreciation schedules since they will guarantee the claims to be more than cost of the report.

    Your opinions would be appreciated.

    Profile photo of magic32magic32
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    @magic32
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    With the name of the trustee on title, how do you or the ATO know that it's not the trustee person or the trustee company who personally bought the property, but actually the trust that bought it?
    Say the trustee was Steve Jones, what would appear on the contract and title?
    Is it Steve Jones, or Steve Jones trustee for Trust Name?
    Do trusts have names and how do you register this name?

    Thanks

    Profile photo of magic32magic32
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    But I only earn about 15,000 income a year at the moment. According to an online mortgage calculator, I’ll need about 40,000 income to be able to get a 240,000 loan for 80% loan for 300,000 property. So I am still far from that. or is it less with a low doc / no doc.

    Profile photo of magic32magic32
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    Currently I don’t have enough deposit nor borrowing capacity since I am working part time.

    My parents can take some equity out of their existing property/redraw from their loan to help me make up the rest of the 20%. And they simply just draw a cheque and pay for it on settlement, or do they need to put that money into my savings account first, and then I draw the cheque?

    However, I still don’t have the borrowing power to be able to get the other 80%.

    QLDS007 said “If it is for security purposes then would be no real problem as the family pledge style loan is fairly active and their guarantee would normally be limited to 20% of the purchase price.”

    But I will need them to guarantee the 80% (less what ever I can borrow myself). How do I go about doing this?

    Basically I only want my name on the title for FHOG, and therefore only my name on the loan if possible. If my parent’s name is on the loan as well, then the lender would want my parents to be on title as well right? At least 1% share on the title I think.

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