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  • Profile photo of JZ_33JZ_33
    Participant
    @jz_33
    Join Date: 2014
    Post Count: 28

    Ok so what would you do, or how would you invest $100K cash if you were in the following situation:

    1) Saved up $100K cash to use as deposit / funds to invest.
    2) You currently don’t own any assets so you’re eligible for the First Home Owners Grant.
    3) Earn $150K per year.

    Would you look to purchase 1 unit / house @ around $400K-$600K? or would you look at purchasing 2 properties @ around $300K each? And how much would you look to borrow 80%? 85%? 95%??? I read that LMI can actually be a good tool for IP?

    So lo an behold, this is my current situation and I know I should have started investing earlier, but oh well. Better late than never I guess.

    So I’m curious, what would you guys do? :)

    • This topic was modified 9 years, 6 months ago by Profile photo of JZ_33 JZ_33. Reason: Revising
    Profile photo of JZ_33JZ_33
    Participant
    @jz_33
    Join Date: 2014
    Post Count: 28

    Also the FHOG only seems to be very restrictive as it only applies to new homes. This would rule out a big majority of the property market. Would you forgo the FHOG and buy something else or would you try and take advantage of the FHOG?

    Profile photo of TheNewGuyTheNewGuy
    Participant
    @thenewguy
    Join Date: 2014
    Post Count: 151

    I would:

    Buy a PPOR and use the whole $150k as a deposit. Possibly a FHOG if you want to go that way, however, I would buy a PPOR that I was happy to live in and the best investment possible. Ideally with good capital gains to use for further purchases. Maybe a house you could raise a family in if you’re at that place in life.

    I would then redraw an investment loan against your PPOR and use that to pay for all the investment costs. That way you would have the lowest non-deductible loan and the highest deductible loan.

    You could end up like:
    PPOR: $500k value. $350k loan. Maybe a bit more if you can’t fund stamp duty etc.
    Investment redraw: $50k (no LMI) more if you want to pay LMI. Held against your PPOR, which is still only 80% LVR.
    IP loan: Value $300k. $250k loan give or take depending on LMI.

    In this case you would have $350k non-deductible. $300k+ deductible on a $300k house. If you split the money to buy two places then you won’t have as much deductibility. Check you can service the loans as well…

    Hope that makes sense.

    Profile photo of BennyBenny
    Moderator
    @benny
    Join Date: 2002
    Post Count: 1,416

    Hi JZ,
    Welcome to you too – it is good that you have found us, as it sounds like you are well-prepared financially to make a go of IP’s. But first, do have a think about where you want to be, and whether you will need cashflow or Growth to achieve it.

    The “Do I buy a PPOR or an IP?” is one of those early questions, and it would be good to arrive at your own conclusion re this. To get an idea, try Steves Articles, or check out this link :-
    https://www.propertyinvesting.com/topic/4410491-the-big-picture-for-new-readers-especially/#post-4697967

    There are many things to consider and plan, so please don’t set off running – take the time to learn to walk first !! :p

    That link takes you into a thread especially for those starting out, so do check out some of the other posts in it too – much you will learn grasshopper….

    Benny

    Profile photo of JZ_33JZ_33
    Participant
    @jz_33
    Join Date: 2014
    Post Count: 28

    I had a read through of some of the threads prior to posting this and really like how this forum is so forthcoming with advice and help, so thank you guys! Doing a wonderful job in helping us newbies out :)

    I’m definitely looking at getting an IP and that link, thanks very informative btw, cements my decision. Right now I’m facing a few the following questions.

    1) I don’t know if I should exclusively look at new units / houses because of the FHOG conditions. Doing this will save me a lot of money but by the same token, restricting my purchasing options. From an investing point of view, would you forfeit FHOG for a good opportunity?

    2) I’m trying to manage a safe-moderate risk profile and looking long term instead of short term and wondering if I should favour yield over growth (hopefully both). Which would allow me to grow my portfolio at a steady rate.

    3) Considering I’m trying to keep it safe for now, what are your thoughts on either buying 1 place in the $500K-$600K range in a better area (e.g, inner west Syd)? Or should get 1 or 2 places in the $300K-$350K in a more remote area (e.g, west/south-west Syd)?

    4) What are the cons of getting a 95% loan considering that I will be able to make repayments easily. i.e, Put down 5% cash even though I have enough for 10%-20%. Is it silly to do this?

    Profile photo of BennyBenny
    Moderator
    @benny
    Join Date: 2002
    Post Count: 1,416

    HI again JZ,
    I’ll put my opinions re some of these – hopefully others might put counter-points, leading to a more rounded look at this complex area for you. See what you make of these thoughts :-

    1) From an investing point of view, would you forfeit FHOG for a good opportunity?

    Hmm, define “forfeit” !! If you mean would I NOT use FHOG to buy an IP if it was a good opportunity, I’d say a definite YES. In doing so, I believe (I could be wrong) that the FHOG might still be available to you when wanting to purchase your PPOR later on. Of course, State Govts decide when/if to offer or cancel FHOG – when wanting to buy your PPOR, the current FHOG may not be available – in that case, “forfeit” would apply I guess.

    2) I’m trying to manage a safe-moderate risk profile and looking long term instead of short term and wondering if I should favour yield over growth (hopefully both). Which would allow me to grow my portfolio at a steady rate.

    If a safe path were required, maybe purchasing a PPOR is better for you (as suggested by “theNewGuy” above). Certainly, you appear to have the kind of Income that would allow you to quickly pay down such a purchase, gaining Equity that could then be borrowed against for investing in IPs (and therefore Tax deductible). It also means that a later sale would NOT incur Capital Gains Tax (which, on your Income, would likely be at top marginal rate). So a safe path might be to buy a PPOR, perhaps one that could gain equity from a renovation, then sell when buying another PPOR (also with an Equity gain – another reno?). Some build their wealth in that way, and is (I believe) a very safe, if slower, way to go. The saving of CGT makes a serious difference to your final outcome.

    A moderate way would be to go for positive cashflow IPs, which would earn an extra Income from day one. These are usually found in lower-priced areas (with higher yields). Growth is not usually as high, but can still happen, especially if you “manufacture it” via renos, sub-division, etc. In buying at the lower end, EVERYBODY can afford to buy/rent your place. Other demographics apply though, so don’t just buy anything in that sphere.

    3) Considering I’m trying to keep it safe for now, what are your thoughts on either buying 1 place in the $500K-$600K range in a better area (e.g, inner west Syd)? Or should get 1 or 2 places in the $300K-$350K in a more remote area (e.g, west/south-west Syd)?

    My answer to 2. probably covered that when I mentioned the more moderate path.

    4) What are the cons of getting a 95% loan considering that I will be able to make repayments easily. i.e, Put down 5% cash even though I have enough for 10%-20%. Is it silly to do this?

    Your high Income probably trumps any “cons” of a 95% loan. One major con is the extra burden when Interest Rates rise. With a larger loan, the Rate increase hurts you more than most. But these things can be mitigated – get advice before committing though – by using Fixed Rates and/or Variable, and Offset Accounts.

    On the other hand, the “pros” include the capability of keeping more cash as deposits on more IPs. You could conceivably buy 2 or 3 lower-priced IPs quite quickly. If holding 3 IPs worth $300k each, you have some advantages over one higher-priced IP.

    1. If you lose a tenant for 4 weeks, you lose 33% of your income for that time. With a single IP, you lose 100% of your Income.
    2. Buying 1 higher priced IP might stop you in your tracks while you wait to build more deposits. With lower priced IPs, your funds can buy 2 to start, and perhaps a 3rd very soon after.
    3. Should things turn sour, and you need to liquidate quickly, you can choose to sell just “the worst performing one” – leaving you in better shape afterward. With one IP, you have just one choice, and you might be selling a top-performer.

    There is SO much more to it…. I hope those few thoughts are useful to you for now. Let’s see what others have to say too,

    Benny

    Profile photo of JZ_33JZ_33
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    @jz_33
    Join Date: 2014
    Post Count: 28

    Thanks for the very detailed response Benny.

    I’ve just checked for FHOG and one of the conditions is that You or your partner have not previously owned residential property in any form in any State or Territory of Australia. Guess I’d be ok to forfeit this concession if it meant that all these other opportunities are available.

    PPOR – as safe as this strategy sounds, I don’t think I’ll be heading down this path. More due to lifestyle choices.

    I do however, really like the idea of starting out with 1 and then maybe 2 lower priced IP’s as it feels that I’m spreading my risk and not putting all my eggs in the one basket.

    But on CF+, since the goal is to ideally find a place where the rent covers the mortgage, what if it is actually a slight negative cashflow property. And assuming that the growth is very slow due to the area, would you consider this to be a ‘bad buy’?

    Profile photo of Jacqui MiddletonJacqui Middleton
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    @jacm
    Join Date: 2009
    Post Count: 2,539

    Hi JZ_33

    Take care not to fall into the trap of listening to people who tell you to get yourself some negative gearing “for the growth”. If you sit down and cut the numbers, quite often such people are essentially paying for their “growth” up front in the form of out-of-pocket expenses along the way. Heaven help them if their forecasted growth doesn’t happen as planned.

    You cannot buy groceries at the supermarket with the promise of “growth”. You can buy food to put on the table with cold hard cash. There won’t be much cold hard cash in your pocket if you are constantly forking out to support properties that don’t come anywhere near paying for themselves. If you are collecting properties that are covering their expenses, there is little reason why you couldn’t continue collecting properties.

    Jacqui Middleton | Middleton Buyers Advocates
    http://www.middletonbuyersadvocates.com.au
    Email Me | Phone Me

    VIC Buyers' Agents for investors, home buyers & SMSFs.

    Profile photo of JZ_33JZ_33
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    @jz_33
    Join Date: 2014
    Post Count: 28

    Take care not to fall into the trap of listening to people who tell you to get yourself some negative gearing “for the growth”.

    Ok that makes sense. So should negative gearing only ever be considered for tax break purposes then?

    In my current situation where I’m currently earning circa $150K a year, would getting a negatively geared property be more advantageous than a postively geared one?

    Profile photo of JZ_33JZ_33
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    @jz_33
    Join Date: 2014
    Post Count: 28

    In doing further reading via Benny’s wonderful thread, I stumbled on this piece about negative gearing, highlighting the pitfalls and misconceptions and will approach this with much more caution.

    Having said that, the sentiment I get is that it is almost impossible now to find a CF+ property in Sydney. It seems the only way to get this is to find a property for a good price in a good location that has potential to add value to in doing renos etc.

    If that is the case, would it be true to say that most CF+ properties are actually houses instead of units due to the fact you can only do so much to a unit?

    And what would be some of the stock standard things you would look for that would be enough to add value to a place. Things like kitchen cabinets, bathroom, carpet?

    Profile photo of BennyBenny
    Moderator
    @benny
    Join Date: 2002
    Post Count: 1,416

    Hi JZ,

    I stumbled on this piece about negative gearing, highlighting the pitfalls and misconceptions and will approach this with much more caution.

    It contains really worthwhile information. The main slant though (I believe) was to warn against “those that will try to sell you their new offering by using it to show how little it will cost you after Tax benefits, etc”. As Steve says, negative gearing is incurring a certain loss in hope of a greater capital gain.

    Now, in your situation, with a large income, it CAN work for you. The more important things to consider are the deal itself. If you buy in a low vacancy area (lots of demand), and the property has features that make it a good deal (reno opportunity, possible sub-division, steady growth, infrastructure in place or imminent, advantageous price, etc.

    I watched as Rents in Sydney soared, with renters lining up to “bid up” what they would pay each week – just to get a place. I think that was in the late 90’s. Then only a couple of years later, landlords were having to DROP rents by up to $100 a week just to get someone in. i.e. its a cycle. If you do your research and shop for IPs in the right areas, AND have enough of an Income to ride out the rough times, you will do OK.

    I’ve heard Steve (and others) say buy below Median value – this puts you in a price range that is affordable to most, and perhaps buys a place that can be brought up to a Median value with some work (cosmetic reno?) thus adding Equity.

    Re Units, these are something I would buy only if I bought a whole block. Though they appear to have a higher Gross Return, the Nett gets chewed up with Body Corp fees as well as the other “usual costs”. Also, as you said, what you can do is quite limited without getting the Body Corp involved. But then, I’m sure that others will have a different slant (perhaps a way that does work for them in buying Units)….

    Benny

    Profile photo of JZ_33JZ_33
    Participant
    @jz_33
    Join Date: 2014
    Post Count: 28

    Thanks for the reassurance Benny. I’m definitely thinking more along the lines of buying and adding value now.

    What are some of the simple renovations that people do to add value? Actually I think that in itself my be worth it’s own thread so I might just do that.

    Profile photo of CatalystCatalyst
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    @catalyst
    Join Date: 2008
    Post Count: 1,404

    Lots unanswered questions which make a HUGE difference to which way is best for you.

    EG Where do you live? City.

    What’s your current living arrangement (renting, living at home, sharing?)

    If renting what suburb? Do you want to stay in that suburb? close to work?

    Whether it is financially better to buy a PPOR or an IP depends on where you want to live. If you want to live in an expensive suburb it is often better to buy an IP in a suburb that has better yields and rent where you want to live (as it’s cheaper to rent than buy there.

    Negative VS Positive. Do you want to lose money to save tax or make money? Lots of debates on this. You can only buy so many negatively geared properties before you hit a wall.

    Reno’s are the way I build equity. Of course there are other ways. Find what’s best for you.
    Keep reading and asking.

    Profile photo of JZ_33JZ_33
    Participant
    @jz_33
    Join Date: 2014
    Post Count: 28

    Whether it is financially better to buy a PPOR or an IP depends on where you want to live. If you want to live in an expensive suburb it is often better to buy an IP in a suburb that has better yields and rent where you want to live (as it’s cheaper to rent than buy there.

    I live in Carramar with the folks and intend on staying here for a while, so PPOR is not really a strategy I’m considering. It is definitely an IP that I want to get.

    Negative VS Positive. Do you want to lose money to save tax or make money? Lots of debates on this. You can only buy so many negatively geared properties before you hit a wall.

    This I am open to. I haven’t spoken to an accountant yet to understand what benefits I can gain from negative gearing. As mentioned you can only hold so many negatively geared properties before you can’t get anymore. Based on this, I’m leaning towards finding a positively geared one, or as close to one as I can get.

    I’ve been tossing and turning over different ideas over the past couple of days and here are my thoughts and I hope you guys are able to poke a million holes and tell me where I went wrong (or right if you want to be nice). I’ve got two options below and I guess I’d have to lean towards Option 2, considering my strategy profile is a safe to moderate one. Maybe there are third and fourth options that I don’t know of.

    Option 1
    Buy a brand new unit in the $500K-$600K range. This will definitely be a negatively geared property but I will do my best to find a good one. My broker has assured me he can get me a 97% LVR loan through ANZ. At the very least, 95% LVR. Quite a scary amount of debt but I’m going to make sure there’s an offset account to allow me to theoretically leave the remainder of my savings there effectively reducing interest as though I’m 85% LVR.

    Savings left following purchase: ~$70,000.

    Pros:
    * Portfolio worth $550K.
    * First Home Owners Grant and Stamp Duty waived.
    * Plenty of cash left in the bank.
    * Potential for good growth.
    * Tax benefits.

    Cons:
    * Negatively geared so losing money.
    * Not risk adversed strategy
    * Plenty of cash in the bank in the offset account. If funds are withdrawn for any reason, repayments will go up significantly?
    * Very limited to the amount of value you can add to the place.

    Option 2
    Buy a property in and around $350K range. With a 97% LVR loan through ANZ.

    Savings left following purchase: ~$70,000.

    Pros:
    * Portfolio worth $350K. Less than $550K but risk is also less.
    * Plenty of cash in the bank. If thrown in an offset, should bring the repayments down significantly turning the property into a potential CF+ one? Would that work?
    * Plenty of opportunity to add value by way of reno’s etc.
    * Allows me to purchase a second property without affecting repayments too drastically.
    * Risk adverse.

    Cons:
    * Lose the First Home Owners privileges.
    * Growth is much more limited vs option 1.

    • This reply was modified 9 years, 5 months ago by Profile photo of JZ_33 JZ_33.
    Profile photo of JZ_33JZ_33
    Participant
    @jz_33
    Join Date: 2014
    Post Count: 28

    <moderator – delete advertising>

    Hi Jarrod,

    Thanks for offering your assistance. At this stage I’m still going through and learning the ropes and reading lots of things, speaking to friends, family. Maybe at a later stage if I’m still struggling to catch on then I might turn to some professional help like yourself.

    But in the mean time, if you’re not too busy, I’d love to hear some of your thoughts and comments about the topics discussed in this thread :)

    Profile photo of CatalystCatalyst
    Participant
    @catalyst
    Join Date: 2008
    Post Count: 1,404

    Hi, you say you don’t want a PPOR. You do realise to get the grant you need to live in it right?
    Calculate minimum 6 months of paying interest with no rent/

    If you buy an IP you do not lose the First Home owner Privileges. Under the present rules you can still get it later if you own an IP now (as long as you have not lived in it).

    Also if you buy new you may not be negatively geared as you will get much more depreciation in the first 5 years. That’s why a lot of people DO buy new.

    When you do speak to an accountant find one that has a decent property portfolio. I have been given bad advice in the past. A good property savvy accountant is a MUST if you want to get anywhere in the property game.

    I myself buy under market value (difficult in Sydney ATM) and add value with a reno. This gives you instant equity to buy again plus an increased yield. Done right you will be CF+ from day 1. Others have a different strategy. There’s no right or wrong, just what works for you. I buy for yield as I want to retire so cashflow is what will let me do it.

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